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Frequently Asked Questions

Frequently Asked

We offer various restore tools, for various reasons. The core of our products repairs standard 60 degree profile threads like inch, metric and pipe threads. We also have tools for special threads like ACME and BUTTRESS threads, square threads, glands, grooves, and surfaces. For example, the various sizes for our standard thread tools just allow for different reaches and opportunities. Let’s give an example. The RT2 is 2 inches long and repairs most applications, however, there may be a need to reach further down a longer threaded bolt or deeper into a threaded hole that exceeds 2 inches. This is where the 4 inch RT2L comes in handy. Same with the diameter with the RT1 and the RT2. Both tools do the same thing, work the same way, however, RT1 will fit into smaller 7/16 inch (11mm) diameter size holes (nuts), where as the RT2 can go down to a 5/8 inch (15mm) threaded hole (tight fit but should go). See the tools instructions are the same, each tool just offers a perk for various projects.

Great question! Light! We have a saying, “Let the tool, do the work”. Forcing down on the workpiece (heavy tool pressure) will not only make the repair not as user friendly, it will also wear out your tools quicker than it should. Keeping light tool pressure is all that is required, just enough to keep it under control as well as guide into the damage. Let us add this also, you don’t have to make a restore on the first passover on the damage, walk the tool back and forth over the damage and in seconds you will see great controlled results. Start in the good thread, let it guide you into the damage. It’s that easy!

No, the tool will not cut you. In fact we have demonstrated this at many of our trade shows. We do not recommend touching the tool while it is spinning and recommend the user abide by best safety practices when operating the tool. The tool spins at high RPM and anything with high RPM is not wise to touch due to friction. For this reason we also do not recommend touching the tool after a repair. Friction will cause the tool to get hot, so waiting several minutes before removing the tool or touching the tool work surface. The tool is very safe to operate, use best practices, safety glasses, and keep the tool free from loose clothing or hair.

Look we are not naive, we realize there are other ways to repair threads. It’s not like we are saying we invented the first ever thread repair tool. We are just saying we have invented the best ever thread repair tool. We can say that with confidence, and here’s why. We’ve been in the industrial, manufacturing, maintenance, and automotive world for over 60 years getting our hands dirty just like you. This tool wasn’t invented by a fly by night gimmick idea, it was made in the back of a machine shop to solve the worlds never ending problem of thread repair, and doing it without having to spend hundreds and thousands of dollars.

We allowed anyone to be their own machine shop and fix their own threads without expensive machines, equipment, and experience. Plus it’s so fast and so satisfying to fix a thread now. Not a labor intensive aggravation it once was. If you’d like to know more about other methods of fixing threads and why rotary thread files are the best way to go. Check out our free ebook.

Yes, we are the only tool on planet earth that can restore the outside and inside of a thread using the same tool to do it. We think that’s pretty awesome. If the tool will reach or fit into the hole (nut) then it will restore it.

The tool can restore any diameter on the outside, and the inside is only restricted by where the tool can fit. Smallest hole size for our current tool lineup is 7/16 inch (11mm).

The tool can restore any diameter on the outside, and the inside is only restricted by where the tool can fit. Smallest hole size for our current tool lineup is 7/16 inch (11mm).

We are not “pitch dependent”. Let us explain what that means. Most thread tools out there have to match the thread pitch on the application. If they don’t, you will damage the thread worse. So because we work off of a single profile work piece that matches every 60 degree profile. We can restore any inch, metric, and pipe threads with our standard assortment of tools. We don’t recommend going below 28 TPI (0.9mm) on fine threads, that’s pretty small and anything below this there isn’t much to work with. Any pitch above that is perfectly fine. When we say above, we mean more coarse threads like 24, 20, 18…etc.

Short answer, no. Let us explain. The tool will work in either direction of its movement, however, we do have a piece of advice for the new users. We have found in our use, as well as proclaimed customers who have left reviews and offered help to other Rotary Thread family members that there is one way that makes it even easier starting off. If you hold a drill in your hand away from you and pull the trigger, you will notice the rotation of the drill is clockwise. This is important. If you are working on lets say a bolt, starting and moving the drill in a counterclockwise direction counter to the rotation of the drill allows the tool to work against the movement of your hands.

This is good, it helps getting use to the tool and allows you to have a controlled follow through. When you go clockwise with the rotation of the tool, you are moving with the spinning tool and it will want to move faster on the follow through. This makes sense because you are moving the tool in the direction of the spinning tool. Working against the spin, gives more control. How do we use it? Well once you gain confidence, you can go in either direction comfortably. 

Good question. We have had customers literally fix threads spinning the tool in their fingers (we don’t recommend this), so we will call this 20 RPM all the way up to standard recommended operating speeds of 8,000 to 10,000 RPM. The highest we recommend the tool be ran at is 12,000 RPM, there is really no reason to run it faster. Most hand drills work ok at 1500 RPM. Though if we have a preference, 8000 to 10,000 is where we like to work. Why? Because the tool runs smoother and operation is more efficient. We suggest taking a few passes at those speeds, testing the thread with it’s mating part, then take a few more passes. Feel free to baby step into the full repair. Try various speed, we have found different users prefer slower to faster and vice versa. The tool is designed to gradually repair the area. Keep the tool moving and you will find the best success. Never sit the tool in one spot. You want sweeping movement.

As long as the material is not flammable or creating a hazardous environment when working with, then most metals, plastics, and even ceramics can be restored using this tool. Our proprietary superabrasives can work through even hardened metals. No tool on the earth can work through hardened threads and restore them. We also can work with most plastics. We would recommend keeping the tool flushed out with any type of cutting fluid to keep the dust from filling up the restoring surface of the tool. This happens a lot with plastics. It is also recommended to not hold the tool in one spot for long periods of time on plastics as the wear is more rapid than on metals. Using slower RPM’s is suggested on different materials to give you a better experience and success. Each user works differently.

No, but using any non-flammable fluid does help prolong tool life, flushes out the repair while operating and keeps things a little cooler than running dry. Heat caused by friction can wear tools more rapidly. So though it’s not required, we recommend using it to maximize your experience and tool life. Any thin cutting fluid will work, but we also recommend non-flammable mineral spirits as this is thin and helps clean and flush out damage while restoring the area.

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